• To identify a gemstone there are a number of very accurate tests which a jeweler-gemologist can make use of.
• Each gem species has characteristic physical and optical properties which are constant
Within narrow limits and to a certain extent can be objectively determined.
• However, a basic fact which must never be forgotten is the importance of a visual identification.
• An unknown stone can be classified by correctly perceiving its color, cut transparency,
Luster, dispersion, heft, as well as any phenomenal properties etc.
• The type of lighting in which each of the properties is observed is also important.
What is a gem stone?
Beauty, Rarity & Durability: B, R, D, is one of the basic concepts by which a
Material can be defined as a gemstone.
Beauty: This is a subjective property and is defined by the four C’s’, Color, Clarity,
Cut and Carat size. The presence of a phenomenon also enhances the beauty of a gemstone.
- Color: In colorless stones, the lesser the color the better the quality. In colored stones, the darker and purer the shade of color, the better the quality.
- Clarity: This is defined by the presence or absence of inclusions within a stone which indicates the transparency. This can be more objectively judged by.
- Number of inclusions
- Size of inclusions
- Position of inclusions
- Color of inclusions
- Cut: A stone which has been cut and polished keeping in mind the accurate angles and proportions of cutting, which bring out the full life, fire and brilliance of a gemstone. The beauty of a particular cut can be observed by examining the type of cut. And the summery and polish on the crown, pavilion and girdle portions of the stone.
- Carat size: This relates primarily to the weight of a stone.
1 carat = 100 cents / points =200mg.
The larger the size, with good color and clarity, the higher the value.
Weight of the gems, i.e. larger the stone with good color and clarity, higher the value.
Rarity : The is an important aspect and may either be due to natural resources or due to man made situations.
- If a gemstone is available in large quantities, it will not be much in demand.
- If a gemstone has all the four C’s’ and a phenomenon, it would be rare.
- Political and economic conditions in country can control the supply to demand ratio of rough and cut stones.
- If a stone has a limited geological and geographical occurrence i.e. from a single source e.g. red beryl from Utah (USA)
- Durability: A gemstone must be durable enough to withstand dally wear and tear. This includes the qualities of hardness, cleavage, brutality toughness resistance to heat pressure or chemicals.
- A softer stone will get scratched more easily.
- A stone with a number of internal cracks will be less durable.
- A stone with easy cleavage e.g. diamond topaz etc. may split into two if it suffers a hard knock.
- Perspiration, perfumes lime juice etc. may damage less resistant gem materials such as pearls.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Friday, July 4, 2008
Jewelry Desining- Working with Rotring Pen
Day9 to day 15-
As we are perfect with the basic patterns of jewelry, we take a step ahead and learn something more interesting. Before we start with the next chapter we need some stationery like Rotring pen, Black ink, Inject sheet, Mount board, A4 Tracing sheet, clips and mix template.
Another thing to keep in mind is how to use the rotring pen? As this pen is very delicate we need to take care of few things while using it.
• Before pouring the ink in cartridge, it should be well cleaned and dry.
• The cartridge bottle should be filled at ¼ level.
• Before using the pen it should be shake well, but very delicately.
• The tip of the pen should be well cleaned before and after working.
• If the pen is not being used for more than 5 days then the pen should cleaned well. The ink should be transferred back to the ink bottle and should be well cleaned with the water. Make sure the pen tip is also cleaned with water. It should be well dried in shade and on a soft base.
Now coming back to the learning part, on the inject sheet draw different shapes with the help of the mix template. Now using the rotring pen over these shapes. The movement of the pen should be in flow and no over lapping should be there. The movement of the pen should be very soft.
On the other side start using tracing sheet to trace some good design from any jewelry design book. This helps one person to have a good flow in designing part, along with the drawing part.
The very next step is to trace out the designs from tracing sheet to the inject sheet. The traced designs on the sheet need to be given a perfect, proportional shape with the pencil and then do the rotring pen on it. Along with this we need to draw symmetrical image in the inner side of the original image maintaining equal distance with rotring pen. The inner lines should not be wide at all. This chapter is the most important of all as this will help with designing and it will help you from scratch till the end of jewelry designing and this is the main base of jewelry designing.
As we are perfect with the basic patterns of jewelry, we take a step ahead and learn something more interesting. Before we start with the next chapter we need some stationery like Rotring pen, Black ink, Inject sheet, Mount board, A4 Tracing sheet, clips and mix template.
Another thing to keep in mind is how to use the rotring pen? As this pen is very delicate we need to take care of few things while using it.
• Before pouring the ink in cartridge, it should be well cleaned and dry.
• The cartridge bottle should be filled at ¼ level.
• Before using the pen it should be shake well, but very delicately.
• The tip of the pen should be well cleaned before and after working.
• If the pen is not being used for more than 5 days then the pen should cleaned well. The ink should be transferred back to the ink bottle and should be well cleaned with the water. Make sure the pen tip is also cleaned with water. It should be well dried in shade and on a soft base.
Now coming back to the learning part, on the inject sheet draw different shapes with the help of the mix template. Now using the rotring pen over these shapes. The movement of the pen should be in flow and no over lapping should be there. The movement of the pen should be very soft.
On the other side start using tracing sheet to trace some good design from any jewelry design book. This helps one person to have a good flow in designing part, along with the drawing part.
The very next step is to trace out the designs from tracing sheet to the inject sheet. The traced designs on the sheet need to be given a perfect, proportional shape with the pencil and then do the rotring pen on it. Along with this we need to draw symmetrical image in the inner side of the original image maintaining equal distance with rotring pen. The inner lines should not be wide at all. This chapter is the most important of all as this will help with designing and it will help you from scratch till the end of jewelry designing and this is the main base of jewelry designing.
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