Gemstones used in jewelry are given values based on their weight, size, luster, brilliance, transparency, and stones degree of perfection, durability, portability and availability. The relative rarity of stones possessing some or all these qualities has resulted in the classification of gemstones into precious and semi- precious groups.
Precious Stones
There are nine precious stones-:
1.Diamond
2.Ruby
3.Emerald
4.Blue Sapphire
5.Yellow Sapphire
6.Coral
7.Cinnamon
8.Cat’s eye
9.Pearl
Semi precious stones- All other stones believed to be sufficiently attractive when cut and polished to be usable in jewelry are considered semi precious.
Synthetic stones- Today science has devised ways of manufacturing many gemstones by artificially reproducing their crystal structure, and the results are termed synthetic stones.
Color:Color is considered by its hue, tone and saturation.
Hue- pure spectral colors.
Tone- That attribute by which a color is perceived as holding a position on a scale from light to dark.
Saturation- Measurement of the amount of hue in a color
• Color is also considered in terms of a primary and a secondary shade. E.g. bluish green.
• These factors depend essentially on the type of light used .The same stone may behave differently in different light sources.
• The light source should be daylight with a preference for north light (less U.V. radiations).
• The stone should be examined in reflected white light initially. And then in transmitted light.
• Over colored Stone tuned to give misleading idea of transparency. Due to the intensity stone would appear opaque in reflected light
Transparency: The quantity and quality of light transmitted by the stone. Use transmitted light to judge
Transparent(TP)- Transparent stone usually are cut with facets to allow maximal dispersion of light within the stone. The quantity and quality of light transmitted by the stone. Transmits light readily; can read through easily, even if colored. E.g. diamond, ruby emerald etc.
Opaque(OP)- Opaque stones are generally cut in cabochon. Transmits no light .E.g. Pyrite, Hematite, Laces Lazuli.
Translucent(TI)- Translucent stones may be cut either way. Transmits a very small amount of light. Primarily around the edges. E.g. star garnet.
Semi-Transparent(S-TP)- Transmits light somewhat less readily; can read through but with slight distortion (Somewhat hazy). E.g. Amber and moonstone.
Friday, August 1, 2008
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Jewelry Designing - What is a Gem Stone?
• To identify a gemstone there are a number of very accurate tests which a jeweler-gemologist can make use of.
• Each gem species has characteristic physical and optical properties which are constant
Within narrow limits and to a certain extent can be objectively determined.
• However, a basic fact which must never be forgotten is the importance of a visual identification.
• An unknown stone can be classified by correctly perceiving its color, cut transparency,
Luster, dispersion, heft, as well as any phenomenal properties etc.
• The type of lighting in which each of the properties is observed is also important.
What is a gem stone?
Beauty, Rarity & Durability: B, R, D, is one of the basic concepts by which a
Material can be defined as a gemstone.
Beauty: This is a subjective property and is defined by the four C’s’, Color, Clarity,
Cut and Carat size. The presence of a phenomenon also enhances the beauty of a gemstone.
- Color: In colorless stones, the lesser the color the better the quality. In colored stones, the darker and purer the shade of color, the better the quality.
- Clarity: This is defined by the presence or absence of inclusions within a stone which indicates the transparency. This can be more objectively judged by.
- Number of inclusions
- Size of inclusions
- Position of inclusions
- Color of inclusions
- Cut: A stone which has been cut and polished keeping in mind the accurate angles and proportions of cutting, which bring out the full life, fire and brilliance of a gemstone. The beauty of a particular cut can be observed by examining the type of cut. And the summery and polish on the crown, pavilion and girdle portions of the stone.
- Carat size: This relates primarily to the weight of a stone.
1 carat = 100 cents / points =200mg.
The larger the size, with good color and clarity, the higher the value.
Weight of the gems, i.e. larger the stone with good color and clarity, higher the value.
Rarity : The is an important aspect and may either be due to natural resources or due to man made situations.
- If a gemstone is available in large quantities, it will not be much in demand.
- If a gemstone has all the four C’s’ and a phenomenon, it would be rare.
- Political and economic conditions in country can control the supply to demand ratio of rough and cut stones.
- If a stone has a limited geological and geographical occurrence i.e. from a single source e.g. red beryl from Utah (USA)
- Durability: A gemstone must be durable enough to withstand dally wear and tear. This includes the qualities of hardness, cleavage, brutality toughness resistance to heat pressure or chemicals.
- A softer stone will get scratched more easily.
- A stone with a number of internal cracks will be less durable.
- A stone with easy cleavage e.g. diamond topaz etc. may split into two if it suffers a hard knock.
- Perspiration, perfumes lime juice etc. may damage less resistant gem materials such as pearls.
• Each gem species has characteristic physical and optical properties which are constant
Within narrow limits and to a certain extent can be objectively determined.
• However, a basic fact which must never be forgotten is the importance of a visual identification.
• An unknown stone can be classified by correctly perceiving its color, cut transparency,
Luster, dispersion, heft, as well as any phenomenal properties etc.
• The type of lighting in which each of the properties is observed is also important.
What is a gem stone?
Beauty, Rarity & Durability: B, R, D, is one of the basic concepts by which a
Material can be defined as a gemstone.
Beauty: This is a subjective property and is defined by the four C’s’, Color, Clarity,
Cut and Carat size. The presence of a phenomenon also enhances the beauty of a gemstone.
- Color: In colorless stones, the lesser the color the better the quality. In colored stones, the darker and purer the shade of color, the better the quality.
- Clarity: This is defined by the presence or absence of inclusions within a stone which indicates the transparency. This can be more objectively judged by.
- Number of inclusions
- Size of inclusions
- Position of inclusions
- Color of inclusions
- Cut: A stone which has been cut and polished keeping in mind the accurate angles and proportions of cutting, which bring out the full life, fire and brilliance of a gemstone. The beauty of a particular cut can be observed by examining the type of cut. And the summery and polish on the crown, pavilion and girdle portions of the stone.
- Carat size: This relates primarily to the weight of a stone.
1 carat = 100 cents / points =200mg.
The larger the size, with good color and clarity, the higher the value.
Weight of the gems, i.e. larger the stone with good color and clarity, higher the value.
Rarity : The is an important aspect and may either be due to natural resources or due to man made situations.
- If a gemstone is available in large quantities, it will not be much in demand.
- If a gemstone has all the four C’s’ and a phenomenon, it would be rare.
- Political and economic conditions in country can control the supply to demand ratio of rough and cut stones.
- If a stone has a limited geological and geographical occurrence i.e. from a single source e.g. red beryl from Utah (USA)
- Durability: A gemstone must be durable enough to withstand dally wear and tear. This includes the qualities of hardness, cleavage, brutality toughness resistance to heat pressure or chemicals.
- A softer stone will get scratched more easily.
- A stone with a number of internal cracks will be less durable.
- A stone with easy cleavage e.g. diamond topaz etc. may split into two if it suffers a hard knock.
- Perspiration, perfumes lime juice etc. may damage less resistant gem materials such as pearls.
Friday, July 4, 2008
Jewelry Desining- Working with Rotring Pen
Day9 to day 15-
As we are perfect with the basic patterns of jewelry, we take a step ahead and learn something more interesting. Before we start with the next chapter we need some stationery like Rotring pen, Black ink, Inject sheet, Mount board, A4 Tracing sheet, clips and mix template.
Another thing to keep in mind is how to use the rotring pen? As this pen is very delicate we need to take care of few things while using it.
• Before pouring the ink in cartridge, it should be well cleaned and dry.
• The cartridge bottle should be filled at ¼ level.
• Before using the pen it should be shake well, but very delicately.
• The tip of the pen should be well cleaned before and after working.
• If the pen is not being used for more than 5 days then the pen should cleaned well. The ink should be transferred back to the ink bottle and should be well cleaned with the water. Make sure the pen tip is also cleaned with water. It should be well dried in shade and on a soft base.
Now coming back to the learning part, on the inject sheet draw different shapes with the help of the mix template. Now using the rotring pen over these shapes. The movement of the pen should be in flow and no over lapping should be there. The movement of the pen should be very soft.
On the other side start using tracing sheet to trace some good design from any jewelry design book. This helps one person to have a good flow in designing part, along with the drawing part.
The very next step is to trace out the designs from tracing sheet to the inject sheet. The traced designs on the sheet need to be given a perfect, proportional shape with the pencil and then do the rotring pen on it. Along with this we need to draw symmetrical image in the inner side of the original image maintaining equal distance with rotring pen. The inner lines should not be wide at all. This chapter is the most important of all as this will help with designing and it will help you from scratch till the end of jewelry designing and this is the main base of jewelry designing.
As we are perfect with the basic patterns of jewelry, we take a step ahead and learn something more interesting. Before we start with the next chapter we need some stationery like Rotring pen, Black ink, Inject sheet, Mount board, A4 Tracing sheet, clips and mix template.
Another thing to keep in mind is how to use the rotring pen? As this pen is very delicate we need to take care of few things while using it.
• Before pouring the ink in cartridge, it should be well cleaned and dry.
• The cartridge bottle should be filled at ¼ level.
• Before using the pen it should be shake well, but very delicately.
• The tip of the pen should be well cleaned before and after working.
• If the pen is not being used for more than 5 days then the pen should cleaned well. The ink should be transferred back to the ink bottle and should be well cleaned with the water. Make sure the pen tip is also cleaned with water. It should be well dried in shade and on a soft base.
Now coming back to the learning part, on the inject sheet draw different shapes with the help of the mix template. Now using the rotring pen over these shapes. The movement of the pen should be in flow and no over lapping should be there. The movement of the pen should be very soft.
On the other side start using tracing sheet to trace some good design from any jewelry design book. This helps one person to have a good flow in designing part, along with the drawing part.
The very next step is to trace out the designs from tracing sheet to the inject sheet. The traced designs on the sheet need to be given a perfect, proportional shape with the pencil and then do the rotring pen on it. Along with this we need to draw symmetrical image in the inner side of the original image maintaining equal distance with rotring pen. The inner lines should not be wide at all. This chapter is the most important of all as this will help with designing and it will help you from scratch till the end of jewelry designing and this is the main base of jewelry designing.
Monday, June 30, 2008
Jewelry Designing- Who are Designers?
The profession of design aims to meet the needs of the modern world by designing in human terms where social purpose is combined with aesthetic expression and symbolic value.
The ‘inventor’ and the ‘designer’ are rarely the same person. Having the idea, proving the principle, inventing the process is done by both the inventors and the designers, but applying the principle, invention and the process so that it works on all levels is done only by the designers only. They are designers who turn inventions into products.
The designer’s true role is to turn the product in a better form which surrounds us in a better way not only in terms of function, appearance, cost and material but also in terms of aspiration, and desire in the dream of how good life might be.
Designers should b trained to help people solve their problems. A designers output depends on the clients vision and brief and on its corporate identity. A designer is a man who has an intension, which is normally conveyed to someone else to execute. One of the main element used by the designers are materials- which are modified by the process according to concepts to fulfill specific purposes.
Designers are not artist: they are market creators who can make new products by combining social trends and inner factors of their own corporation.
The ‘inventor’ and the ‘designer’ are rarely the same person. Having the idea, proving the principle, inventing the process is done by both the inventors and the designers, but applying the principle, invention and the process so that it works on all levels is done only by the designers only. They are designers who turn inventions into products.
The designer’s true role is to turn the product in a better form which surrounds us in a better way not only in terms of function, appearance, cost and material but also in terms of aspiration, and desire in the dream of how good life might be.
Designers should b trained to help people solve their problems. A designers output depends on the clients vision and brief and on its corporate identity. A designer is a man who has an intension, which is normally conveyed to someone else to execute. One of the main element used by the designers are materials- which are modified by the process according to concepts to fulfill specific purposes.
Designers are not artist: they are market creators who can make new products by combining social trends and inner factors of their own corporation.
Jewelry Designing - What is jewelry Designing?
Jewelry Designing is a study of the art of personal ornamentation. It can be define as the art of arranging objects for material for use as adornment or ornament for men and women. Designing involves a number of skills from creativity and originating, ability to visualize ideas and communicate information to a good knowledge and understanding of the subject. Giving shape to our ideas and imagination on paper is designing. The entire core history and value of gems is based on combination of beauty and utility.
The main purpose to design jewelry is to present an overview of the entire gemstones or material. Jewelry is a universal language of art, love and memory. Design in reference to jewelry can be described as an intellectual or intuitive concept in which purposeful planning or metal imagery governs the manner in which materials are used and arranged into a relationship of shapes, forms and surface treatments to create an integrated objects.
The main purpose to design jewelry is to present an overview of the entire gemstones or material. Jewelry is a universal language of art, love and memory. Design in reference to jewelry can be described as an intellectual or intuitive concept in which purposeful planning or metal imagery governs the manner in which materials are used and arranged into a relationship of shapes, forms and surface treatments to create an integrated objects.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Jewelry Designing- what is Jewelry?
Jewelry is said as an ornament which is worn at different parts of the body, such as Rings, Earrings, Bracelets, Necklace etc. made out of Gold, Silver, and Platinum with different precious and semi precious gemstones. The first jewelry was made with bone, animal teeth, wood, shell and carved stone. The word jewelry is derived from the word jewel from the old French Jowel, also from the Latin word jocale which means plaything.
In ancient times jewelry was created basically for wealth, storage purpose. At that time period jewelry was now as symbol of status. Now jewelry plays a greater role in today’s world than it ever did in the past. No more it is use as the privilege of the wealth, for the broadening of the social structure of contemporary society and the burgeoning concepts of what jewel is? The basic appeal of jewelry lies in the satisfaction of primitive needs. Use becomes a means of releasing us to fantasize about ourselves, our lives and our world. Because the motivation of wearing jewelry involves elemental and eternal human concerns, the use of jewelry will persist in one form or another for as long as jewelry race survives. Jewelry is the universal language of art, love and memory.
In ancient times jewelry was created basically for wealth, storage purpose. At that time period jewelry was now as symbol of status. Now jewelry plays a greater role in today’s world than it ever did in the past. No more it is use as the privilege of the wealth, for the broadening of the social structure of contemporary society and the burgeoning concepts of what jewel is? The basic appeal of jewelry lies in the satisfaction of primitive needs. Use becomes a means of releasing us to fantasize about ourselves, our lives and our world. Because the motivation of wearing jewelry involves elemental and eternal human concerns, the use of jewelry will persist in one form or another for as long as jewelry race survives. Jewelry is the universal language of art, love and memory.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Learn how to make Different Shapes
Day 5 to 8 - Another day to learn something interesting. As we are done with basic designs and are perfect with them, the very next step is to sketch curved strings with different patterns. These curved strings should be very much in proportions. As we are good with single curved strings, the next step is to draw strings connected to each other with same size and proportion in one flow. Drawing these strings help us to get flow in hand. On the other hand along with these strings we need to practice drawing different designs of leaf. These leaves should be proportionally drawn and we need to be very careful while picking up the pencil and again starting with the drawing. The thickness of the line should
be the same if we do overwrite with the drawing then also the thickness should not vary. The finish of each sketch should be perfect. The other most important point to remember is that we should rotate the pencil in continuity so that the lead of the pencil remains pointed.As we are perfect with these drawings the next step is to draw parallel lines, curved lines with equal distance between the lines. Along with this we need to draw symmetrical sketches of circles, leaves, curves, Strings in the inner side of the original image maintaining equal distance.
While drawing these patterns when you lift the pencil up, one can move the sheet as per the convenience. These sketches should be well proportionate. Our hands should have an excellent flow as these patterns with little changes are normally used in designing the jewelry.
Saturday, June 7, 2008
Jewelry Designing Course- Basic Drawing
Day 1 to Day 4-To be a jewelry designer the very first thing is creativity, one should have a creative mind, rest all is hard work. The very basic thing to start, is the stationery used?
1. Clutch pencil0.3mm rotring
2. Clutch pencil0.5mm rotting
3. Rotring pen 0.13
4. Black ink
5. Template Mix
6. Templete Oval
7. Templete Round
8. Templete Bangle
9. Inject Sheet
10. Tacno Sheet
11. Tracing Paper
12. Sketch Book
13. Mounting Sheets (hand made Paper-Black and Blue)
15.
16. A/4 Gray
17. Plastic Scale 6"and 12"
18. Staedtler Eraser
19. Clips
20. Artist Water Color Tub
21. Pencil Colors (Luna
22. Poster White Color
23. Brushes (0), (000)
24. Color Mixing Plate
25. Port Folio with Ring (big
26. Graph Paper A/4
27. Cutter
28. Eraser
Now after the stationary, weneed to learn how to hold the pencil? And the rite way to hold the pencil is to hold it from the tip. While working with the pencil one should move
the pencil in a light manner. The movement of the pencil should be very light; it should not be moved by pressure on the page. We have to start the drawing with clutch Pencil0.5mm.
The first day starts by drawing straight lines,
circles, ovals, squares, rectangles, triangles, marquise, heart and pears shape with all different sizes and dimensions, straight lines with squares,curves, triangles, waves, semi circles.The most important point to keep in mind is that one should not lift the pencil while drawing and the pencil should move slowly. Then we draw spirals with 2 to 4 rounds. With this also we cannot lift the pencil nor we can over rite, it should be drawn in one flow with perfect dimensions.
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